Field Notes
From the road
Notes, essays and observations from the journeys behind 28 Shades of India.
2 November 2026
Leh, Slowly
At three and a half thousand metres, the first lesson is humility. A note from the Ladakh chapter.
2 November 2026The Night the God Spoke Malayalam
A Theyyam in a grove outside Kannur, from midnight to dawn. A note from the Kerala chapter.
2 November 2026Three Hours at the Sink
At the Golden Temple in Amritsar, the kitchen was already the theology. A note from the Punjab chapter.